For those who make grape-based distillates, learning from Cognac is one of the best ways to build quality and authenticity.
Cognac stands as a beacon of quality, a testament to meticulous process and tradition. Aspiring distillers and burgeoning distillery start-ups worldwide have much to glean from the region’s approach to brandy production.
Learning aside, they have much to gain in finding ways to replicate the best parts and blending it with what makes their region’s local production distinct already.
This article delves into some of the essential elements of Cognac’s method, offering insights and practical guidance on how these principles can be adapted globally.
Learning from Cognac’s tradition
Cognac is more than just a spirit.
The journey of Cognac, the world-renowned French brandy, is steeped in centuries of tradition and meticulous craftsmanship. The spirit epitomises the perfect blend of heritage, base material and technique.
The drink is as much about the contents of a bottle as it is about the region too. It is deeply entwined with its terroir – a unique combination of soil, climate and geography.
The concept of terroir extends beyond just the physical attributes of the land. It embodies the local traditions and practices that have been refined over generations. For Cognac, their distillates are both the definition of French spirit as well as the result of vines growing on clay and chalk soils.
When considered holistically, there’s power in the idea of terroir
For global distillers, grasping the essence of terroir means more than just focussing on the soil composition; it’s about understanding the symbiosis between the land, grape and the human touch.
It’s about celebrating how that all comes together – literally how it’s distilled into liquid form. You can never seek to emulate Cognac’s success unless you also emulate what it protects, represents and captures holistically.
So many wine regions have incredible history and prestige around the world. Margret River, Marlborough, Nappa, Barrossa, Mendoza et al. all compete with Bordeaux.
This means that so many of the distillers based in those regions have all of the same potential as Cognac producers do on their doorstep (particularly in California, Australia and South Africa). Yet, they don’t seem to embody their region in the same way when it comes to their brandy.
The reason is that it takes unison, a cohesive approach and fierce adherence to a single umbrella approach to raise a region. Cognac is world renowned because it is an ecosystem, not a disparate group of producers.
At the heart of it are the BNIC (Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac), who enforce rules and a shared set of values that binds the region. They are the consultative and decision-making body for the 4,260 winegrowers, 120 distillers and 280 merchants of the Cognac appellation.
The blueprint to replicating Cognac’s success lies in taking an all-inclusive, collective approach. That begins with people talking openly and pragmatic rules to abide by. Then you can get into vineyard management, careful selection of grape varieties, precise fermentation processes, distilling and the art of blending aged eaux-de-vie.
The sum of all these parts is what’s important for global distillers to focus on, not cherry picking one or two elements.
Vineyard management
Cognac’s liquid excellence begins in the vineyard, with a focus on growing grapes that are ideal for distillation. This requires understanding the specific needs of grapes destined for spirits, which differ significantly from those grown for table wines.
The ideal grapes for brandy are those that can provide a stable, acidic base with moderate sugar content and subtle aromatics, tailored to the specific conditions of the vineyard and the desired profile of the brandy. Cognac show that all of the above is possible.
Learning from Cognac’s use of Ugni Blanc, let’s explore the characteristics that are worth considering in particular.
- High acidity. Grapes with higher acidity are ideal for brandy production. High acidity contributes to the preservation of the wine before distillation and influences the final flavour profile. Arguably, it also helps in maintaining stability during the distillation process.
- Moderate to low sugar content. Unlike table wines, where high sugar content is often desirable to ferment to higher alcohol levels, brandy grapes can benefit from having moderate to low sugar content. This is because the distillation process concentrates the alcohol.
- Subtle aromatics. Grapes that are not overly aromatic are often chosen for brandy. This is because the distillation process can amplify aromatic compounds. Having subtler flavours can lead to a more refined and complex brandy, especially after ageing.
- Disease resistance and hardiness. Grapes that are resistant to diseases and can thrive in the specific climatic conditions of the vineyard are crucial. This ensures a healthy and consistent grape yield, which is important for maintaining the quality of the brandy over different vintages.
- Suitability for the local climate and soil. The choice of grape variety should be well-suited to the local terroir. The interaction between the grape variety, soil type, climate, and local vineyard practices significantly affects the distinct nature and authenticity of the final product. Cognac found its optimal balance, others need to as well.
- Ripeness at harvest. The timing of the harvest is critical. Grapes should be harvested at a point where the balance between acidity and sugar levels is optimal for distillation. This will likely differ from the optimal harvest time for table wines.
The art of vinification: Learning from Cognac and tailoring the process for eau de vie
The timing of the grape harvest significantly impacts the brandy’s flavour. Grapes should be picked at a point where their sugar, acidity, and flavour compounds are in optimal balance. This balance is crucial for ensuring that the wine produced has the right characteristics for distillation into a high-quality brandy.
Again, this may be different to what a winemaker might chose.
Replicating Cognac’s reputation as a brandy powerhouse isn’t about picking a great wine region and distilling the fruit. It’s about optimising a region to deliver fruit that’s ideal for distillation.
Once harvested and pressed, the fermentation process is markedly different from that of table wine too. It’s typically faster, with a focus on protecting the must (grape juice) by commencing fermentation swiftly. This approach is crucial for preventing spoilage and preserving the desired aromatics.
Control over temperature and timing is key to developing the right flavour profile for distillation. Parameters over what should and shouldn’t be done are not just discussed in France, they are enshrined. Cognac producers also use specific yeast strains to influence the aroma and flavour of their spirit. With nine BNIC-approved yeast strains available, each cognac house selects based on their desired style.
So what’s the take away for distillers globally?
Mostly, it’s about considering the impact of these factors have and agree to set parameters they can all abide by. The ideal is to create rules for fermentation that ensures a minimum standard, combined with looser guidelines to allow an array of stylistic differences. This builds a window of opportunity that fosters collaboration and fairness.
Concentration and minimisation: Maximising flavours
While sulphur is commonly used in winemaking to prevent bacterial growth and oxidation, its role in brandy production is problematic. High levels of sulphur can negatively impact the quality of the spirit, leading to undesirable flavours and aromas.
To avoid the use of sulphur, distillers can employ natural preservation techniques. This includes maintaining higher acidity in the wine, which naturally inhibits bacterial growth and preserves freshness.
Learning from Cognac – all those seeking to replicate its success should be highly aware of what sulphur does. We’ve written abut this in our Removing Sulphur article.
The heart of brandy production lies in the distillation process, where the aromatic compounds from the wine are concentrated. This is another process that requires a nuanced understanding of how different factors interact to influence the final aroma profile of the spirit.
The Alcohol by Volume (ABV) of the starting wine is a critical factor. Lower ABV wines, when distilled, can result in a high concentration of aromas. This is because the distillation process intensifies the existing flavours and aromas in the wine. There is a trade off with yield to be made here.
Key takeaways?
Distillers should consider their wine’s ABV and balance the need for sufficient alcohol content with the desire for a rich aromatic profile in the final brandy.
In regions where the climate differs from Cognac, distillers must also adapt their preservation methods to suit their specific environmental conditions. They must then understand what to work from and where to compromise (flavour vs yield) and how to distil to maximise flavour creation and finesse.
In other words, they must know what to minimise, what to maximise and what to concentrate…
Implementing best practices in new distilleries
For new distilleries aiming to produce high-quality brandy, investing in the right equipment and training is crucial. Anyone who hopes to replicate the success of the great Cognac houses need to reach a minimum standard quickly.
This includes choosing appropriate types of stills, fermentation tanks, and ageing barrels (with particular attention to the type of oak). Additionally, temperature control systems for fermentation, and reliable tools.
The craft of distilling brandy is as much an art as it is a science and a profession.
Distillers should be well-versed in the nuances of fermentation, distillation, and ageing. This can be achieved through formal education in enology and viticulture, as well as hands-on training and apprenticeships with experienced distillers.
Understanding the subtleties of grape selection, yeast strains, fermentation processes, and the art of distillation is fundamental for producing a superior brandy. You can’t expect to create quality without committing to learning the craft.
That process doesn’t stop once the job stats either. Implementing rigorous quality control measures at every stage of production is key to ensuring consistency and excellence. This includes regular testing of the grape must, monitoring the fermentation process, controlling the distillation parameters, and assessing the ageing process.
At a procedural level, continuous improvement strategies, such as experimenting with different grape varieties, yeast strains, and ageing techniques, can also contribute to refining the quality of the brandy over time. So can engaging in regular sensory evaluations and seeking feedback from experts in the field are invaluable practices for ongoing development.
The takeaway?
What French producers do so well is insist on formal training and qualifications. What seems like bureaucracy and a boring hierarchy of power within distillery teams does have some merit. There is a rigour to it.
All of the bigger players in the region have multiple layers of Sensory Evaluation, Quality Control, Process Control and feedback loops. They embrace the professionalism of it all.
Quality comes from understanding. And understanding comes with the two things you gain from education and applying yourself consistently – learning your craft (and how theory works in practice) and a shared humility that it’s all a journey…
Learning from Cognac: Bridging their tradition with new world innovation
For new brandy makers, understanding and respecting the time-honoured traditions of Cognac provides a solid foundation upon which they can build.
To replicate like for like is not the point, nor what we are suggesting to do.
However, there’s a lot that can be harnessed from mimicking concepts that are prevalent across the Southwestern French region. For those who can adapt these principles to their local environments, they will create brandies that not only pay homage to Cognac’s excellence but also celebrate their own regional identities. In time, they will be revered in a similar way. Look a Japanese Whisky and the way it paralleled Scotch as an example of this in action.
A global community is needed to build individual regions
The brandy-making community, both established and emerging, plays a vital role in shaping the future of this spirit. For the spirit to become more popular, it needs more respected regions around the world to step up and become established.
That might feel like it should start at a grass roots level based in those regions – but the reverse is true.
Sharing best practice and embracing what others do well, not running away from it for the sake of differentiation is a bit part of what is needed. Differentiation will come naturally over time, but only if there is quality. By contrast – quality will never be possible unless distillers embrace best practice.
This makes partnerships the best place to start, and the most important lesson to leverage from Cognac. They combine both local and international expertise.
Building relationships with local grape growers, participating in industry events, and engaging with the distilling community can provide valuable insights and support. Collaboration with other distillers and industry professionals is a great way to share knowledge, learn from others’ experiences, and stay updated with industry trends and innovations. We come back to it time and again, you need an ecosystem, not multiple producers geographically close to each other.
The journey of brandy production is a journey that spans centuries and crosses continents.
Distillers can use the principles and methodologies of region that’s currently highly valued, such as Cognac, as a guiding framework to create diverse and distinctive eau de vie anywhere in the world.
In time, just as they did in the past, we’ve got no doubt that Cognac makers will also be asking the question on how they can better reflect what’s going on elsewhere…
