I’ve been fascinated about the idea of English Whisky for close to a decade. Mostly, because it’s been so underdeveloped in the craft distilling boom that’s happened in the UK that it has continuously been an area of untapped potential.
But more so, because I believe that it can present a modern edge to the whisky category that the likes of Scotch have a vested interest not to pursue. I’ve long believed that English Whisky can bring in new flavours, ideas and stories that wouldn’t need to balance centuries long heritage, or to cater to an existing market with often fixed views on what it whisky is (and isn’t) about.
To me, English Whisky represents a fresh slate to create a new legacy. It’s a chance to connect to a new generation of drinkers on original terms, not just move the dial incrementally forward.
Want to get the full picture of this emerging category? Here’s a deep dive…
The growth of English Whisky
Let’s set the scene with some stats.
According to Commercial Spirits Intelligence, in 2023, around 50,000 nine-litre cases of English whisky were sold. Meanwhile, English Whisky Guild figures state that over 250,000 people visited English distilleries and that 40% of all English whisky produced was sold internationally to about 30 countries.
Not bad for a young industry, right?
There are more producers emerging each month too. By my count, 60 are currently laying down English Whisky including the newly commissioned Witchmark Distillery and 3 or 4 new distilleries under development that I know of.
In terms of what it looks like for the drinker here in the UK – there are just over 100 expressions to pick from once you tally up all the ranges, and more opportunities for cask sales, bottled New Make, and blended whiskies (that include Non-english whisky in the mix).
Less than a decade ago, sixty producers would have seemed a foolishly optimistic number to predict would be in the game. Yet what strikes me most is that compared to elsewhere around the world, English craft distillers have not been quick or even proportional to embrace whisky making at all.
There are over 800 distilleries in the UK according to HMRC. Split that into countries and England boasts around 600 of those. This means that fewer than 12% make whisky.
Compare that to over a hundred in Australia (and the explosion of Whisky makers in Tasmania in particular). Alternatively, look at the USA where almost half of craft producers produce a whiskey of some sort and where new styles like American Single Malt is about to emerge after years of politics and a seemingly softening interest in Bourbon.
In this light, England’s percentage of craft distillers who make whisky is very low.
Sales figures also reflect this currently narrow slice and are dominated by a few key players. Drill down into those export stats, and the tens of thousands of cases sold are mostly from just half a dozen companies.
A reason for this has been the dominance of gin. It led many producers to be single spirit focussed. From my experience, I have found that in general, most English start up distilleries since 2014 are small production sites, that had a lower CAPEX spent on stills and have historically shown limited interest to future proof operations with infrastructure to be able to mash, ferment and make spirits from scratch.
Understandably too – gin doesn’t require any of that and the consumer interest in all things juniper has been universal.
Why does this matter?
Because now that gin has taken a domestic nosedive, it’s much trickier to diversify production to the likes of whisky making, as the gear (or knowhow) just isn’t there.
It requires big operational reinvestments that most are not willing to make. Many can’t afford to either. Besides, given they weren’t making whisky already, even if they could there is a long wait time for maturation to take its course. Would they survive long enough on existing gin sales as they wait?
Again, compare that to Australia, France, USA and elsewhere where the majority of producers were set up to be either pan-spirit operations, or at least able to go from raw material onwards. In those instances, when a category takes off (or capitulates as is the case for gin), the taps come on as the infrastructure is already in place to shift the focal point.
It’s safe to say then, that while English Whisky is here and significant – it’s not like there is a huge stream of producers who are about to come online as they diversify from gin.
Reaching 100 English Whisky makers here is unlikely to happen before 2030. Therefore, it’s those who are in market already that will shape its identity, credibility and establish its potential.
What makes English Whisky exciting?
One big factor is its diversity. English whisky is about the people, the places, and the local ingredients that make each distillery unique. Layer onto that production techniques and experimental ideas for maturation – it’s a dynamic space.
Many English distillers use locally grown barley, but it goes further than that. Henstone Distillery Company Director Henry Toller explains, “We get to be playful and don’t have to stick to the ‘norm.’ This lets us create spirits that are unique to England, which is exciting for everyone.” In their case, the result is a bright, fruity whisky with complex flavours.
More broadly, there is a clear potential for English whisky to become known for being innovative. Indeed, you can expect the term ‘innovation’ to be a big part of the narrative that surrounds the category in years to come.
One producer embracing this broad range of possibilities is Liam Hirt, the co-founder of Circumstance Distillery. He told me that “English distillers take inspiration from all over the world—not just other distilleries, but also brewers, cider makers, and even sake breweries. It makes English whisky truly innovative.”
It’s something that Andrew Howitt, On-Trade Controller at Ellers Farm Distillery says is reflected in their whisky too. “Our point of difference stems from our production process in collaboration with Theakston’s brewery. They create a bespoke wash for us, very similar to a porter style beer. It is easy to drink and unique to us.”
Liquid aside, it doesn’t just stop there either. There is a significant amount of creativity in the way these are being presented to drinkers. Look at the glass design on Wireworks and Filey Bay for starters. Or the graphic design of Bimber‘s TFL series. Meanwhile, Karl Bond, the co-founder of Forest Whisky points out that “Our English Oak casks and ceramic bottles are a huge point of difference from Scotch, giving our products real local character.”
Arthur Miller, co-founder of Scilly Spirit Distillery who released their Island Whisky this November (the first whisky ever to be made on Scilly), is equally adamant that packaging is a big part of their whisky’s story “[the product is in] an exciting bespoke design, once again keeping true to our ambition of bringing different aspects of the Isles of Scilly to life through our packaging.”
When it comes to English Whisky the opportunity is there to forge a reputation for both innovation and quality at the same time. It might be a nascent category, but there’s no current ceiling on what’s possible.
“We are seeing a new category of whisky evolve incredibly quickly driven by flavour and provenance. This is a wonderfully affectionate provocation for both current whisky drinkers and new adopters to challenge the old school tropes about whisky and see the category for what it is today: Exciting and accessible, where flavour rather than heritage is the main driver.”
Alex Wolpert, founder of East London Liquor Company
Does English Whisky stack up?
In all the exuberance around what’s possible, the question most want immediate answers for is if it’s any good. In my opinion, the quality of some of The Lakes, Filey Bay and The Cotswolds Distillery speaks for itself. They make delicious products and so do many others like Cooper King, White Peak, Adnams, Copper Rivet and more.
English whisky is either comparable on quality to any other region – be it new or established.
And that’s not just my opinion. Look at international competitions, where English distillers have even won the “World’s Best Single Malt” award twice recently. Andrew Nelstrop, owner of The English Whisky Company, was proud to tell me that “Our The English Sherry Cask was voted Best Single Malt Whisky in the world, showing that English whisky can compete with the best.” And I agree.
English whisky might be delicious, but is it different enough to stand out?
If there’s something that I’ve understood working with dozens of world class producers, it’s this; For all the quality in the world, differentiation is as important (if not more so) when it comes to achieving commercial success.
That’s true for any spirit, but draw a direct line between English Whisky and Scotch and the need to differentiate is stark. Given the prominence, the scale of companies involved, the hundreds of high-quality products being sold at incredible prices (and frankly the A&P resources at their disposal) north of the border, “me too” products are unlikely to cut through.
Expanding on the potential to build that differentiation Liam Hirt explains “England had a whisky industry that came to an end in the 1940s, so the current English whisky distillers have been handed a blank canvas. There are no preconceptions about what an English whisky should be and no obstructive rules about how it should be made. One of the biggest opportunities is for creativity.”
So, is there enough innovation going on currently? It seems that the jury is out. Richard Lock, Founder of Retribution Distilling raises a valid point when he says “Within the big players in English Whisky no, is all pretty much Single Malt as that is where the value is – aligning with north of the boarder. Some smaller distillers are pushing boundaries, but I would say are in the minority.”
How can differentiation be achieved? Time to think beyond the cask.
The obvious area where English producers will be able to innovate is with cask selection. It’s the most noticeable area when comparing the Scotch Whisky Association and (the proposed) English Whisky Guild GIs.
But for me, it must go further and for producers to combine that opportunity with others to make compound gains. Regenerative farming, hybrid distilling techniques, multi grain mashbills and so on…
Thankfully, examples of this can be seen dotted around everywhere – Forrest Whisky’s use of English Oak casks is one, while David Smith, Chief Executive Officer at Fielden echoes this idea of creating space through the sum of many parts.
“I feel the real way English whisky can differentiate itself is by simply not doing a ‘copy and paste’ of Scotch Whisky; at Fielden it’s about the integrity of our grain, the art of our blending, being a rye whisky and our brand being about our fields (& not about where our distillery is physically located) that combine to make that point of difference!”
Jordan Morris, Owner & Head Distiller at Abingdon Distillery is also a person who is well aware of this area and eager to push hard on the angle of experimentation. “Obviously not just using oak for maturation is a big one outside of Scotland. I’ve got a few chestnut barrels ageing whisky so really excited for that release” he tells me. “Still designs across the board are so varying from site to site. I’m using a 650L hybrid pot with 6 plate column so it gives me the option to double pot or go column depending on grains & styles. That flexibility to switch up processes easily with your setups is definitely a bonus.”
He continues “I’m also super excited for all our mash bills we have done so far and not just working with malted barley. [Equally] I have chosen wooden wash backs with no lids for open top fermentation in oak. I use 2 yeasts over 8 days minimum fermentation that allows wild yeast and bacteria to add a secondary fermentation to the wash.”
It’s also worth keeping in mind that pursuing innovation, differentiation and respecting long established traditions from elsewhere doesn’t have to be mutually exclusive.
There is room for products closely aligned with Scotch heritage and ideology, as well as the opposite. And for that juxtaposition to emerge in the range of the same maker!
It’s a position that Sarah Burgess, Whiskymaker at The Lakes Distillery takes in her approach to crafting their range. “I don’t think this is an either-or question. The Lakes, and English whisky, is in an enviable position where we can take all the learning from Scotch and apply new ideas on top of that. It’s an exciting place to be for a Whisky maker.”
As always, it’s all about finding that balance.
Challenges for English Whisky producers
Despite the mostly untapped potential, blue sky innovation remit and the consensus around the current quality of products being made – English whisky still faces plenty of challenges. Both immediate and long term.
The bigger picture for all spirits is that there are tough market conditions ahead. Economic challenges, difficult supply chain dynamics and declining sales are impacting the whole industry. This will have a clear trickle-down effect, be it direct or indirectly.
It’s a fact that Andrew Nelstrop is all too aware of and already looking to strategically plan for. “As an industry, we will have to deal with a downturn in whisky consumption in USA & China, which may not directly bother English Whisky producers. But those [Scotch / Bourbon producers] that do sell to these markets will move excess stock to other markets, making sales more competitive everywhere.”
Then there are supply chain challenges such as getting high-quality casks and dealing with rising energy costs. It’s also worth noting that most distilleries are tiny compared to the big Scottish producers. And with smaller production volumes, economies of scale are tough to achieve…
Sustainability is another big issue. While many distilleries are investing in renewable energy, cutting emissions and deploying green practices, it’s costly, especially for the smaller players.
It’s true that most English distillers don’t need to retrofit old sites with green solutions. However, big names like Diageo, Pernod Ricard and William Grant are setting high standards with their sustainability plans. Just look at their ESG reports and year-on-year reductions in emissions –its impressive to say the least. More importantly, it’s what the consumer is starting to demand.
If English whisky wants to keep up, let alone compete, it needs to move fast in every way.
Where can English Whisky find its feet?
I keep coming back to this question time and again. In prepping this deep dive, I asked over a dozen producers this question and the silence was, at times, deafening.
Clearly, quick wins will be hard to come by, especially while the bigger picture plays out.
On a positive note though, when you have good liquid – a lot of it is simply about getting in front of enough drinkers. As Lucy Gregg, Co Founder of Wight Whisky told me, ” I think it’s all about education and having the opportunity to get liquid on lips…people will naturally opt for what they know, but we know when we have the opportunity to tell our story and most importantly get customers to try our whisky, we’re able to convert them”.
Most seemed to indicate that other solutions can be created through collaboration, and via upselling the region, not just sharpening elbows as an individual producer.
As one of the oldest producers, English Whisky Co’s Andrew Nelstrop seems to be inviting this collegiate atmosphere and is excited about where this cohort of producers is bringing to the world stage. “It will be fascinating to see where the newcomers concentrate the efforts, from the digital realm to the traditional supermarket offering. One area all small producers struggle to enter profitably [or rather commercially aware] is the travel retail marketplace. We have seen companies dip their toe into this, but no one appears to have pushed hard – maybe this is the untapped marketplace next on the list to be conquered by English Whisky as an industry.”
Looking at the market overall and where The Lakes Whisky sits in it, Sarah Burgess reflects that “Here in the UK, we only account for 2% of the Luxury Dark Spirits market, so we are working hard to explore new markets, launching in Global Travel Retail, and looking for new opportunities all the time. This is where we see big opportunities for growth and, with English whisky being so relatively new, we don’t need to follow any heritage or well-trodden path.”
Through tasting, talking and visiting English makers for this article, I believe the best way to grow the industry domestically is to get a different kind of consumer interested. It can’t just be middle-aged white men looking for ‘Scotch v2’.
That’s easier said than done. But through the conversations I’ve had, I’ve been disheartened to discover that neither changing consumer perceptions or changing target consumer were particularly at the front of mind for many of the producers.
It’s clear that investing in building a more diverse audience will increase the chance for English whisky to reach new and exciting places.
If, as Liam Hirt put it to me “a modern approach to whisky making is emerging, of which England’s distilleries are at the forefront” – then making the category accessible for both seasoned whisky drinkers and new enthusiasts is paramount.
Evidently, Scotch marketeers are also pursuing this agenda too, and in growing numbers. That said, as it’s now abundantly clear through the likes of Our Whisky and others, change north of the border has been slow and not significant enough yet.
English whisky doesn’t have the layers of preconceptions and because of that, should use the opportunity to spearhead the movement towards a more inclusive community and a broader fanbase. It could become the instigator in chief right from this young stage.
If it did – I believe it would send an important signal of differentiation while also disrupt the attention away from the Scotch establishment. It would deliver a solution to both an immediate issue (that of being the little guy) and a generational one (appealing to Millennials and Gen Z in a way others have failed to cater to yet).
As Dan Szor put it to me in our conversation about the power of storytelling in brand building “The Scotch Whisky Association has done a fantastic job in sort of keeping quality standards and norms, and to promote the image of Scotch whisky to the point where Scotch and whisky have become literally synonymous. And our job is very different. The story I always tell is that I feel that whisky is where wine was in the seventies, when all of a sudden, new world wine burst forth on the scene. The Napa’s, South African wines, Australian wines etc. It took 50 years to get to where we are now. They’re no longer really even called new world wines anymore. But we are still called new world whiskies. And we will, for a while, until people cotton on. That’s a big challenge for English Whisky.”
He’s right, it will take time. Possibly longer than I can ever imagine. But let’s not also forget how disruptive some of the events, ad campaigns and brands were in those early days of New World Wine. There is no need to be as provocative as they were, but there’s a page or two that might be worth adopting from their play book…
The GI, and potentially the fault line.
Perhaps one of the most significant factors shaping the future of English Whisky in the years ahead is whether or not the Gi will be implemented. It seems likely and the ramifications of it are significant.
“The development of an English Whisky GI has been a journey of discovery to build a consensus, with the proposed GI being in development for over three years. Our proposed GI has been created taking input, equally, from all members of the EWG in a collegiate manner and then seeking to build an agreed position.” Explains Morag Garden, CEO of the English Whisky Guild.
The positives of it are clear – The GI will reinforce the message both domestically and globally that English Whisky is made not only in England but to a certain level of quality that consumers hope for.
Morag expands on this further when she states that “Creating strong quality standards alongside the growth of the English whisky sector will not only assist those distilleries who are selling English whisky today but also those who are laying down and maturing spirit which will be sold as English whisky over the next decade and beyond.”
The feedback I’m getting in conversations with advocates of the GI is that while it’s there to set benchmarks and agreed standards, it’s aiming to do so in a sensitive manner. There is a reason it’s taken three years to even apply for it.
Moreover, it’s not like the Guild isn’t plainly aware of the advantages producers have and they seem eager not to curb that potential not ensnare them with limitations. Or as the official party line from the Guild goes “English Whisky’s point of difference lies in its ability to combine tradition with bold innovation. While rooted in the same rigorous craftsmanship that defines British spirits, English Whisky producers have the freedom to experiment with a wide range of grains, maturation techniques, and flavour profiles.”
Personally, I can see the benefits and the move towards it appears to be coming from a genuine desire to build long term value. But either through speaking off the record or me reading between the lines of their responses to my questions, over a dozen producers have told me they are uneasy about the suggestions being made. That the GI echoes Scotch too closely, that it’s too soon, that it’s overly prescriptive…
And even though few will overtly sate their public opposition to it, they raise salient points that are worth taking into consideration. To be fair – the impression I got was that’s exactly what’s happening.
Perhaps English whisky makers should take note of the recent history of Gin. A lack of agreed rules around innovation lead to loose provenance claims, endless gimmicks and inevitably, an entire subcategory of Flavoured Gin that is crashing less than a decade later.
Looking ahead, whatever rules that are agreed upon must be legally enforceable and punitively protected if breached. Learning from gin’s shortcomings once again, even when clear breaches of EU ratified rules are made, a well-funded and draconian enforcer is then required to regulate it. Otherwise it’s just a charade that is talked about but never adhered to. Gin has that issue. Rum also suffers from that very challenge today as well. The rules are there, yet the adherence to them is seldom complied…
It seems that at the time of writing – all eyes are all scrutinising the detail of what might become an English Whisky GI. Many are working to ensure they have the right balance of clear guidelines yet with room to innovate. Yet, there is an equal task awaiting once it’s been approved too. That will be no small feat to put together and unenviable job to do.
The future of English Whisky
The journey of English whisky is only just beginning, and its potential is vast.
English whisky has the opportunity to shape its own identity—one that embraces creativity, regionality, and the diversity of its makers. Yes, there are challenges ahead: changing consumer perceptions, battling established giants and navigating market conditions. However, the lack of preconceptions that can seem like an obstacle are also its greatest strength.
With or without the GI, in the next five to ten years, the future of English whisky will be defined by its pioneers. And they are a collective who are willing to push boundaries and challenge expectations.
With the right balance of innovation, quality, and storytelling, English whisky can carve out a significant place in the global spirits market too. The enthusiasm of producers and the quality of their products already lay a solid foundation.
Now, it’s about building awareness, creating accessibility, and expanding the audience to bring this exciting spirit to the world stage.
Now, more than ever, is English whisky’s moment to captivate, challenge, and redefine the category’s landscape. And I’ll be sipping along cheering them on.
Written by Olivier Ward, 12th November 2024.
