Japanese whisky, a celebrated category in the world of spirits, epitomises a harmony of tradition and innovation. Once thought of as New World Whisky, it’s grown to become part of the establishment.
Rightly so, it has it all from heritage, quality, international stature and more!
This article covers the foundational aspects of Japanese whisky including some of its defining characteristics, history, and a few of the Japanese whisky brands steering its path.
Defining japanese whisky
In February 2021, the Japan Spirits & Liqueurs Makers Association laid down clearer definitions to govern what can be labelled as Japanese whisky. The hope is that it ushers in a new era of transparency and authenticity.
Prior to the regulatory update in April 2021, the criteria for a spirit to be labelled as Japanese whisky were fairly lenient. To say the least… It was sufficient for the liquor to be bottled within the country, even if the constituents were sourced globally. This enabled producers to import elements like Scotch or Canadian whisky, blend them in Japan, and market the result as “Japanese whisky”.
According to the new standards, Japanese whiskies must now meet the following criteria.
- It should originate from Japanese malted barley or other native grains and utilise Japanese water.
- The entire production process, spanning fermentation to distillation, must be carried out in Japan.
- The spirit should undergo a maturation period of a minimum of three years in wooden casks before being bottled in the country. The whisky must maintain a minimum alcohol concentration of 40% ABV.
Producers were granted a transition period until 2024 to fully adhere to these norms.
While it remains to be seen how this shift will influence consumer perceptions and the accolades awarded in the industry, it undeniably heralds a period of transition. It needed it. While many of the less authentic brands will now face heightened scrutiny, in the medium to long term, it’s clear that the credibility of Japanese whisky has been taken up a notch.
History of Japanese whisky
As you trace the history of whisky in Japan, you can easily see why so many commentators are fascinated by its rich narrative. It can’t be seen in isolation either. The story of Japanese whisky loosely mirrors the nation’s journey from isolation to a harmonious blend of local and foreign influences.
- Early 20th Century. The inception of whisky production in Japan is credited to Masataka Taketsuru, who brought the art of whisky making from Scotland to Japan. Shinjiro Torii, the founder of Suntory, partnered with Taketsuru to establish Japan’s first whisky distillery, Yamazaki, in 1923. Taketsuru also went on to establish the Nikka Whisky Distilling Company in 1934, marking a significant milestone.
- Mid-to-Late 20th Century. The industry witnessed steady growth with the introduction of diverse products and a focus on craftsmanship. Production remained in the Scotch style and openly paid homage to the Scotch whisky industry.
- 21st Century. The Japanese whisky industry catapulted to global acclaim, winning numerous international awards. Not only has it set the stage for a booming domestic and international market, but a renewed confidence in its identity.
Japanese whisky brands
Understanding the landscape of Japanese whisky is incomplete without recognising the stalwarts who have shaped its course.
- Suntory. Beyond founding the seminal Yamazaki distillery, Suntory owns other iconic distilleries including Hakushu and Chita. It is known for its innovation and harmony in flavours, embodying the spirit of “Monozukuri,” the art of meticulous manufacturing. It’s Single Malts and blends form the cornerstone of what many associate with Japanese whisky and what many will have been able to come across internationally.
- Nikka. Nikka operates two distilleries: Yoichi and Miyagikyo. Nikka’s whiskies are revered for their boldness and complexity, a reflection of Taketsuru’s relentless pursuit of perfection.
- Chichibu. A newer entrant, founded in 2008 by Ichiro Akuto, Chichibu is quickly gaining reputation for high-quality, finely crafted whiskies. It symbolises the new wave of Japanese whisky, honouring tradition while embracing modernity.
Japanese casks
As Japanese whisky has soared in popularity, so too has the interest in native cask types that bring unique and diverse flavours. In particular Mizunara and Sakura casks, as well as Japanese cedar.
The intrinsic properties of Japanese casks, especially Mizunara oak, open a world of exciting opportunities in whisky maturation. Though scarce and often challenging to work with, these casks have a rich array of potential flavours to impart, awaiting exploration by both producers and consumers alike.
How they speak to what it means to be Japanese and how that is marketed is interesting too.
Mizunara casks
Mizunara casks are the hot ticket in Japanese whisky right now. It wasn’t always so however. They were first used for whisky through necessity, not through the flavour profiles they impart. Post World War II, Japan’s distilleries faced a critical shortage of materials, forcing them to look domestically for cask wood. The immediate solution was found in Japanese oak, specifically mizunara oak. However, they were considered a poor substitute for a variety of reasons (more below) and were quickly abandoned.
Today, Mizunara casks have re-emerged and are prized for the complex and rich flavours they impart.
Some of the reasons why its use was abandoned is easy to see, and they are playing a central role in the perception of the casks today. Mizunara oak is predominantly sourced from a specific forest in Hokkaido, which is characterised by its stringent harvest conditions. The trees must be centuries old to be felled!
The wood poses several challenges in cask production, including its tendency to be crooked, making it difficult to fashion into casks. Meanwhile its permeable nature results in a considerable angel’s share.
Little wonder then, that securing mizunara for cask production is an arduous process.
Despite this and despite the loss during maturation – they remain one of the most desired casks in global whisky currently. Once coopered, casks are exceptionally priced compared to European or American counterparts.
Why are they so sought after then?
The reason is simple – once the whisky is made, they offer a compelling proposition. Namely, the unique flavours the casks impart, offering a medley of aromatic oriental incense, coconut, and sandalwood, alongside typical notes of vanilla and honey.
Moreover, these casks improve with repeated use, offering a superior balance of flavours in the second or third fill. Add to this the marketing allure and you have a hugely sellable offering… Unique tasting whisky, from exclusive casks made in Japan and that speak of the country’s heritage – a trifecta of desirability!
Other japanese casks: Cherry Wood, Cypress, and Cedar
Beyond Mizunara, Japanese distilleries are experimenting with casks made from cherry wood, a more affordable yet equally fascinating alternative.
Sakura casks are cherished for the unusual flavours they impart – slight almond and fruit notes. Flavours aside, they also offer a transfixing link to the cherry blossom season. The releases made with them effortlessly carry the romanticised vision many have of the country in bloom.
Interestingly, cypress and cedar casks are now starting to emerge in the whisky industry too. Both may seem odd choices at first, but they have long histories with Sake and Shochu production. Only time will tell how they are harnessed to create fantastic whisky.
Key takeaways
Japan’s approach to whisky production — characterised by a meticulous choice of ingredients, precision in production, and a harmonious blending of flavours — is one of a philosophy of craft distilling grounded in quality and authenticity.
The new regulatory landscape sets far better guidelines on whisky production. It reflects the increased confidence of producers who have found their voice on the international stage. What it means to be a Japanese Whisky is now becomeing ever more established, and its reputation is set to increase for years to come.
