Craft distilling, a field where art meets science, demands a meticulous approach to quality and flavour. Sensory assessment plays a pivotal role in this process.
You can’t make great spirits without a fundamental understanding of the sensory characteristics of the flavours you produce. Nor without a fundamental control over them too!
This article delves into what distillers, especially those new to the industry, need to understand about sensory assessment. We’ll detail some of the processes involved, the necessary equipment, and a few key considerations to ensure consistent quality.
The essence of sensory assessment
Craft distilling is an art form where every drop of spirit tells a story. For a distiller, the narrative is woven through the sensory characteristics of their product: the aroma, taste, texture, and appearance. Those are the ways we convey our message.
They are the elements that form the vocabulary of spirits, each contributing to the overall experience of the end drinker.
Sensory assessment, in essence, is about understanding and controlling these characteristics to produce spirits that are not only high in quality but also consistent in what they are saying. If you can do this day-in-day-out, you’ll have a product that’s appealing to the market. Simple in theory, hard to acheive in practice!
Developing a sensory assessment programme is the first step towards ensuring that each batch reflects the desired characteristics consistently. It’s a blend of science and sensibility, requiring both technical knowledge and a refined palate.
Here’s how to do it…
Sensory analysis techniques
Sensory analysis in distilling is a systematic approach to evaluating the sensory characteristics of spirits using the human senses. In non science terms – that’s nosing and tasting things.
Despite technological advancements, the human nose and palate remain the most sensitive instruments for detecting the nuances in flavour and aroma.
There are several methods of sensory analysis, each serving a specific purpose:
Basic sample screening: This is the simplest form of sensory analysis, where the goal is to determine if a spirit possesses the desired sensory characteristics. It can be a simple yes or no screening. It’s a quick and effective way to assess whether a batch meets basic quality standards.
Difference testing: This method is used to detect differences between spirit samples. Techniques like triangle tests are commonly used, where testers are presented with three samples – two identical and one different – and asked to identify the odd one out.
Descriptive analysis and flavour profiling: This is a more detailed and structured approach. It involves describing and scoring the sensory characteristics of spirits, often using tools like flavour wheels and specific approaches to making notes. This method provides a comprehensive profile of a spirit’s sensory attributes.
For a new distillery, implementing sensory analysis means developing a keen understanding of the sensory aspects of their spirits. It’s about training the human senses to be precise instruments, and using them to be consistent.
Ideally, all distilleries would do all three of the processes above at different stages of their production.
Sensory characteristics and compound control
The sensory characteristics of spirits are largely influenced by various compounds present in them. These compounds, even in tiny amounts, can have a significant impact on the aroma, taste, texture, and appearance of the spirit. When carrying out sensory evaluation, consider all four.
Aroma: Compounds like esters, aldehydes, and terpenes influence the aroma of spirits. The right balance and combination can create a pleasing and complex bouquet. Assessing what you are smelling, in what quantity and how it either boosts the profile of hinders the enjoyment of it is important to asses.
Taste: The taste of spirits is affected by compounds such as sugars, acids, and alcohols – especially at fermentation stage. The art lies in balancing these elements to achieve the desired profile.
Texture: The mouthfeel of spirits, whether it’s smooth, oily, or creamy, is influenced by compounds like certain fatty acids, or additives like glycerol and sugar. Is this desirable or distracting?
Appearance: The visual appeal, including colour and clarity, is often a result of ageing processes and the presence of certain compounds. Is it supposed to look a certain way? Do you need to meet market expectation?
Holistic and systematic
By breaking down your evaluation into these four areas, you can make sure that you are assessing your spirit holistically and systematically.
In an ideal world, each aspect would be linked back to the compound or process that is creating the effect being detected. That way, you can understand where that flavour can be manipulated if needed. However, this is very hard to do and requires high level of sensitivity and chemical understanding. Moreover, it’s never going to be that accurate as there are many processes that overlap, each developing and contributing to the flavours in a glass.
The more realistic approach therefore, involves using normal words as descriptors, and informed ideas of where the compounds broadly come from. That said, it helps to set some specific metrics on the terms and the assessment itself…
Enhancing sensory assessment panels with pre-agreed common language and visual aids
An effective way to streamline sensory assessments is through the use of pre-agreed common language and visual aids, like tasting wheels. These guard rails and tools aid in creating a more structured and efficient way for sensory panels to discuss flavour and assess samples.
Here’s how they can be integrated into the training and evaluation process, using gin as an example:
Developing a common sensory language
Establish a set of standardised descriptors for aromas and flavours specific to gin. This common language ensures that all panel members are on the same page when discussing their sensory experiences.
Conduct training sessions focused on understanding and using these descriptors. This could include exercises where team members practice articulating their sensory experiences using the agreed-upon terms only.
Keep in mind that when discussing flavour – there are ways to construct sentences that dramatically increase the ability of others to understand what you mean and whether they agree.
Utilising tasting wheels
Introduce the concept of a tasting wheel, a visual tool that categorises and breaks down the complex flavours and aromas found. There are wheels for all spirits that exist already.
That said, take the time to develop a tasting wheel specific to your needs and your team, including both common and unique flavours / notes you are likely to come across.
Practical application in tasting panels
Use either tasting wheels and / or common language in guided tasting sessions. Panel members can point to the wheel and use the descriptors to articulate their sensory evaluation of the gin samples.
Encourage the use of this structured approach in all sensory evaluations to maintain consistency and clarity in communication. It takes discipline. Everyone must train their senses in what they are detecting, as well as train their minds to verbalise it in a pre-agreed way. That’s often far harder to do than people realise.
Feedback and discussion
Create feedback forms that incorporate the common language and visual cues where needed. This helps in documenting and comparing sensory evaluations over time. (Similar to the way Process Control is carried out during production).
Regularly hold group discussions where panel members share their findings and learn from each other’s sensory experiences.
The biggest myth about great tasting panels is that they must all be “super tasters” or that all must have great noses.
What makes a great tasting panel is the collective ability to communicate what they are tasting. They have all learned the same language (the flavours / aromas) and they are all able to translate it back into words in the same way.
It’s the grown up equivalent (and more fun version) of having to translate a paragraph from a foreign language book, then reading it out to the class. Subjective interpretation is always a part of that but by incorporating pre-agreed common language and visual aids, it reduces subjectivity greatly and makes for far more constructive sessions.
Many of the big producers find the process invaluable in achieving and maintaining high standards in production.
Sensory assessment in the distillery process
Let’s rewind for a second now. Sensory Evaluation is not just a post-distillation process.
Long format, panel lead sensory evaluations are great for the the end product. But implementing simple, quick sensory assessments effectively throughout the distillery process is critical for achieving consistency in the first place.
This involves integrating basic sample screening / difference testing sensory evaluation checks at various stages of production. A good distillery will have something for each of these phases…
Raw material selection: The sensory journey begins with the selection of ingredients. Sensory assessment helps in choosing the right grains, fruits, or botanicals, which form the base flavours of the spirit. There should be a strong sample screening assessment going on at this stage.
Fermentation: During fermentation, sensory evaluation can detect any off-flavours or aromas that might indicate a problem in the process. Screening at this stage can save a lot of issues downstream.
Distillation: At this stage, sensory assessment is crucial for making cuts between the heads, hearts, and tails. The distiller’s nose becomes the most valuable tool in identifying the optimal fractions to capture. Difference testing should be a big part of early evaluation here.
Ageing and maturation: For spirits that require ageing, sensory assessment guides the maturation process, ensuring the desired flavour profile develops over time. Panel lead sessions on a flight of samples are common practice here.
Blending and bottling: Finally, before bottling, sensory analysis ensures that the spirit meets the desired standards and is consistent with previous batches.
It doesn’t have to be a convoluted process at each stage – just choose the right type of sensory test at each stage to ensure it’s as expected.
For example, basic screening might be sufficient for raw material selection, difference tasting at New Make stage (for whisky makers) while detailed descriptive analysis is more appropriate for evaluating maturing stock.
Equipment and process considerations
For successful sensory assessment, having the right equipment and adapting distillery processes is key. This doesn’t always mean high-tech instruments; often, it’s about creating the right environment and tools for effective sensory evaluation.
Sensory lab setup: A dedicated sensory lab, free from odours and distractions, is essential. This space should have controlled lighting and temperature to ensure consistent assessment conditions.
Glassware: The right type of glassware, such as nosing glasses, can enhance the ability to detect aromas and flavours.
Sample preparation: Proper preparation of samples, including dilution and temperature control, is key for accurate sensory assessment.
Process adaptation: Adapting distillation, fermentation, and ageing processes to allow for regular sensory checkpoints can enhance overall product quality. Build in ‘check points’.
For those who can afford to, there are technologies that can assist with assessment.
Gas chromatography / mass spectrometry (GC-MS): This technology allows for the detailed analysis of volatile compounds in spirits. It’s invaluable for identifying specific aroma compounds and understanding their impact on the overall sensory profile.
Data analysis software: Advanced software tools can now analyse sensory data more comprehensively. They help in pattern recognition, trend analysis, and predicting consumer preferences based on sensory attributes.
Building sensory assessment expertise in a new distillery
For a new distillery or a new distillery manager, building in-house sensory expertise is important. It can be a bit daunting figuring out how to do it in a non-idiosyncratic way (which may be your own process) and instead, deliver a programme that can be scaled and replicated without you.
Here’s a few ways you can go about establishing standard procedures and build a culture of continuous improvement.
Training programs: Implementing regular training programs to enhance the sensory skills of the team. This could include workshops on flavour identification, defect recognition, and sensory analysis techniques.(more on a gin specific one below)
Sensory panel development: Forming a diverse sensory panel within the team, trained to provide consistent and unbiased sensory evaluations.
Sample preparation and analysis: Establishing standard procedures for preparing and analysing samples, ensuring consistency in sensory testing.
Regular sensory testing: Integrating sensory testing into the production schedule at critical points to monitor and control the sensory quality of the spirits.
Feedback and continuous improvement: Setting up a feedback system for sensory assessments, allowing for continual refinement of the process and improvement in sensory evaluation skills.
Here, we’ll demonstrate an example of implementing / establishing training programs for improving sensory skills in a gin-making context. It involves a structured approach that covers various aspects of gin production, flavour identification, and quality control.
Introduce the team to sensory assessment in Gin production
Initial sessions: Start with basic sessions that introduce the team to the fundamentals of sensory analysis, focusing on how it applies specifically to gin. Your panel should be diverse, so start with basics and bring them all upwards – don’t assume that everyone is going to understand the process of sensory evaluation from the start, just as you wouldn’t assume each has the same recognition sensitivities. A lot of it is about building confidence.
Understanding Gin’s unique profile: Educate the team about the unique flavour profiles of different types of gin, such as London Dry, Old Tom, and Contemporary styles. Explain how yours compares to that.
Flavour identification workshops
Botanicals exploration: You can’t visualise what you do know. Organise workshops that focus on the botanicals commonly used in gin, such as juniper, citrus peels, coriander, and more exotic botanicals. This could include single botanical distillate tasting sessions to identify and describe these flavours.
Sensory vocabulary development: Help the team develop a vocabulary to describe the flavours and aromas accurately, using tools like flavour wheels. Often this is about building confidence.
Defect recognition training
Common flaws in Gin: Educate the team on common defects that can occur in your gin production, such as off-flavours caused by improper distillation cuts or incorrect recipe weighing, or unusual issues during the run (e.g. pot was run too hot, flow rate too fast).
Tasting sessions for defect recognition: Conduct controlled tasting sessions with spiked samples to help the team recognise and articulate these flaws.
Hands-on sensory analysis techniques
Sample analysis: Regularly provide samples at different production stages for the team to assess, discuss, and provide feedback.
Blind tasting sessions: Include blind tasting sessions to challenge the team and reduce bias in sensory evaluation.
Feedback mechanism: Establish a feedback system where team members can discuss their sensory findings and learn from each other.
Once these parts are done, you can use your quality control panels with the knowledge that they are trained and detail oriented. Ensure they regularly taste and evaluate batches of gin for consistency and quality – feeding back each time.
Advanced sensory training
External experts: Occasionally bring in external sensory experts or master distillers for specialised training sessions.
Latest trends and innovations: Keep the team updated with the latest trends in gin production and how they might affect sensory profiles. While these might not be implemented, it keeps things interesting and continues the development of your tasting panel.
Integration with production: Apply the training directly to the production process, encouraging team members to use their sensory skills in making decisions during production. These might be in the way they assist with making the right hearts cut, or after proofing a batch etc.
Sensory assessment in craft distilling is a blend of art and science. It involves a detailed understanding and control of sensory characteristics to produce high-quality, consistent spirits.
This article has emphasised the importance of sensory analysis methods, the influence of compounds on sensory traits, the benefits of a common sensory language, and the integration of sensory assessment throughout the distillation process.
For new distilleries, building in-house expertise in sensory assessment is essential for maintaining quality and achieving desired spirit characteristics. This comprehensive approach ensures that each spirit tells its unique story through its aroma, taste, texture, and appearance.
